Christmas at Lorna Ruby

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Clothing and lifestyle store Lorna Ruby in Exeter does Christmas the way I like it; minimal, a bit scandi and there isn't an inch of tinsel in sight. My tree at home literally has lights on it and that’s it (granted there are lots of them!).

Olivia Bossert and I spent this Wednesday with the lovely team there doing some last minute Christmas shopping and styling some of my favourite items from the store. They stock many of my favourite brands (Selected Femme, Honest Skincare and Leon and Harper) so it was the perfect place to tick off my Christmas list. 

It’s super cosy inside, the mix of homeware and gorgeous accessories, like cosy cashmere scarves, give it a warm and inviting feel. We were like kids in a sweet shop; their lifestyle selection is spot on and make perfect gifts. Think scandi ceramics, jugs, skincare and minimal jewellery that will be perfect for styling up Christmas outfits but can also be worn into next year. During our time there the team helped us with everything we needed whilst we spent time upstairs trying things on in their large changing rooms and relaxing on the comfy sofas in the chill out area.

Obviously, I also spent a little bit of time thinking about what I want for Christmas (!) and pulled together a lovely selection of versatile styles that won't feel out of place come January the 1st and could last through to next summer. I've been guilty of buying items that I only wear once at this time of year (usually sequin tops and Christmas jumpers!) so shopping like this feels less wasteful.

My absolute stand out piece from the store has to the be the soft pink coat from Selected Femme that's so pale it’s almost like a neutral/grey colour. This is an investment that will go with everything I own and is perfect for both winter and worn with lighter weights as it starts to get warmer in spring.

I also like the versatility of the crop wide leg jeans that I styled with this coat. I put them with quite a few outfits, including a super soft stripe cashmere jumper which I didn't want to take off. The trousers will be great for Christmas day and I might dress them up with the silver boots for new years eve. 

Talking of new years eve, it's hard to find something to wear when you're not usually into sparkle and glitz. The navy, wrap midi dress I found here is probably the most useful piece a minimal girl could own. I styled it with a black polo neck to wear now but it can be dressed up for NYE and would even work well for weddings next summer.

If you’re looking for last minute gifts for those in your life that love the minimal/scandi look as much as I do (or if you deserve a treat for yourself!) then I recommend popping in to see the lovely team at Lorna Ruby or by visiting their online store.

The last pre-Christmas orders from Lorna Ruby online are 21st of December.

Online: Lorna Ruby

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This post is part of a collaboration with Lorna Ruby. All words and styling are my own. 

Fashion Insiders: Fashion Buyer Georgie Eustace

If you’ve ever wondered what a fashion buyer does every day then this post is for you! Georgie Eustace is a successful buyer at New Look on the jerseywear department. Having been obsessed with clothes for as long as she can remember she’s worked her way up at the brand over the past nine years.

As a fashion buyer Georgie has a ridiculously glamorous life which includes endless trips to places like New York and LA. She told me about what it’s like to see a customer wearing her clothes on the street, about being paid to shop in Tokyo and South Korea and where she gains inspiration for her ranges.

She also spoke about the pressures of constantly buying product that sells and what it’s like when you’re working in China over the weekend and all of your friends are in London at Field Day!

When did you know you wanted to be a fashion buyer?

I didn’t realise I wanted to be a fashion buyer for quite a while.  To be honest, I didn’t know what I wanted to do! I’ve always been very logical and mathematically minded so I choose to study Economics at Uni. I very briefly considered studying a fashion related degree but I didn’t want to restrict my future career to only fashion and I don’t regret my decision at all (even though I obviously have ended up in fashion!).  

What skills do you feel are key to being a buyer?

There are so many skills involved in a being a buyer that it's hard to narrow it down to a few! Probably first and most important is passion and product eye. You can have all the strategic ideas in the world but if you don’t have the eye for what product you think will be the next bestseller then you won’t make it as a buyer. Listening and teamwork would be next up. You can’t do this job on your own and the team is so important. If you can’t listen to your team and get them on board (and make sure they’re happy!) you’ll be trying to do everything on your own, which is impossible without having a breakdown!

What’s the most glamorous thing about being a fashion buyer?!

The glamorous part is definitely the travel. I’ve done so amazing trips for New Look. I’ve been to New York, LA, Miami and Korea all just to shop for a few days for inspiration and ideas! And I’ve been lucky to do it with colleagues who are all like-minded and have become true friends.

People generally think it’s all glamorous. They think that you have loads of amazing product to choose from and that you can just pick the winners. If only it was that easy! With travel, there are a lot of parts that are very hard work. Working in China for days when you’re jetlagged is tough, and when you’re there working over the weekend and all your friends are at Field Day it can get to you.

What does a typical day look like?

My typical day is in the London office. I like to go the gym before work so I can relax once I’m there, knowing there’s no pressure that I need to leave on time. I will usually have checked my schedule the night before so I know what meetings are coming up. First thing I do is check the sales from the previous day. The best part of the job is seeing your clothes sell and I still get so excited when something new goes out and selling well. Every day I will be multitasking. It’s a constant balance between meeting suppliers and designers to develop new product for the months ahead, but also reacting to current sales and quickly buying more of any bestsellers. If I’m not out at supplier meetings then I’ll be in the office, racking up the product and deciding how much to buy and at what price.

How big is your team?

I’m lucky I have quite a big team. I have four assistants, which I honestly couldn’t live without. I also have three amazing designers. What I love about New Look are the people I work with. I have worked with so many people who have become lifelong friends, have gone on numerous holidays and even lived with!

What have you loved most about being a buyer and what have been your biggest challenges so far?

The biggest challenge I’ve faced is the pressure of being a buyer. When I was an assistant, I never understood why my buyer was stressed. I thought it looked easy! But even though I’ve been doing this for years I still feel the pressure every day to deliver good product that everyone will like and will sell. It often keeps me up at night. But I guess that’s just a sign of how much I care, and I wouldn’t be able to do a good job if I didn’t.

How does it feel when you see your product on customers or celebrities?

I honestly love it whenever I see anyone wearing my products. From a girl on the street to fashion bloggers and magazines, I’m happy with them all! In a way it’s nicer when you see a normal girl in the street wearing something you bought though, it’s more real than another Instagram post and I like to think I’m making people happy.

How much do you travel with your job?

I travel a lot at the moment, which does get a bit much sometimes. I go to Turkey every 6 weeks and China twice a year. Sometimes you just want to sleep in your own bed! When I’m there it’s all about product development. In China, we’ll be developing for the season ahead and in Turkey, it will be product for the next month. I spend most of my time there with designers, brainstorming ideas using catwalk images and inspiration from our shopping in Korea to develop new and exciting ranges.

What big trends can we look forward over the next few months?

Trend-wise I definitely think there’s a shift towards colour and print. Recently I’ve been wearing head to toe red but I’m over that now and I’m onto yellow and green. I’m also obsessed with stripes, there are so many new colour variations I want!

How do you find inspiration for your department, what trend forecasting resources do you use?

Most of the inspiration I use for my department comes from our Korea and Tokyo shopping. They are definitely a season ahead of trends. Last year we bought a lot of things that seemed crazy and full-on at the time but now they’re bestsellers and all the high street are landing similar trends! You definitely have to have an open mind.

Has the loom of Brexit, the downturn in the economy and a general push to keep costs down affected your work?

It is tougher since Brexit, mainly because of the fall in the pound to the dollar and the uncertainty it’s caused. It’s meant re-sourcing some products and working even harder to get the product we want into the retail price we want to sell it at.

What ambitions do you have in your role? 

Right now I’m at a stage where I’m not sure what my ultimate goal is. For years I knew I wanted to progress up the ladder and be a buyer and now that I’ve finally accomplished that I’m not sure what’s next for me. It’s definitely an unsettling feeling.

How do you keep a balance in your life? 

It is hard to keep a balance. This is an all-consuming industry and you can’t succeed if your heart isn’t in it. Even if I’m not working long hours I find it hard to switch off. Support from friends and family is absolutely vital. It’s also really important to have friends in the industry, as they really understand what you’re going through.

Ultimately hanging out with great friends who make me laugh is my favourite way to unwind but I do absolutely love a good holiday. We work so hard that we deserve a break and I love travelling and exploring new places.

My shoot with Olivia Bossert

Last weekend I did my first 'proper' shoot with a photographer.  A shoot that didn't involve coercing a willing (or unwilling!) friend to take some pics of me. Despite constantly putting my pics up here and on Insta I'm actually quite shy about all of this stuff so I got really nervous about it beforehand. Like always, I overcompensated by prepping and organising myself to the nth degree the day before. I even found myself ironing my jeans (a big no-no in my book). 

It was weird for me at first but Olivia Bossert was so lovely that I felt much more at ease after a few minutes of chatting. As well as being super friendly she used all of her skill and expertise to coax some gorgeous pics out of me in a short space of time. It was fab working with someone, like Olivia, that 'gets it'. She knew all of the blogger tricks; like getting me to walk in long strides to give the illusion of longer legs (see below for the results!).

I can't wait to work with her again and thankfully she lives fairly close by. She's a local photographer that settled in Cornwall after studying fashion photography at Falmouth. She now works with many of the brands and bloggers in these parts, as well as big retailers like Joules and White Stuff so I feel very lucky to have started working with her. 

oliviabossert.com

@oliviabossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert

Coat from New Look

Photo by Olivia Bossert @oliviabossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert @oliviabossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert @oliviabossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert @oliviabossert

Coat from ASOS

Photo by Olivia Bossert @oliviabossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert @oliviabossert

Photo by Olivia Bossert @oliviabossert

Fashion Insiders: Anna Berkeley

The next interview in my Fashion Insiders Series, with former fashion buyer Anna Berkeley, has come along at the perfect time for me as I’ve been thinking a lot recently about the changes in my own life since I started out on my own this year.

Anna’s worked in the fashion industry for over 20 years and in that time she’s been a buyer at the likes of Selfridges, Prada, Reiss, Margaret Howell and is now is now a successful style consultant and range planner. I found it fascinating hearing about how she got to this point in her career.

Hearing stories like Anna’s and my own experience of this year has helped me see that life isn’t always a straight path but more like a river that meanders to new places, bringing with it new opportunities. I’ve also been getting very philosophical in the last year or so, in case you hadn’t noticed! Lol!

Hi Anna, thank you for taking the time to talk to me today!

You do a number of different roles in your life - including working as a stylist, fashion writer and buyer. When did you know you wanted to work in these roles?

I have to admit I didn’t truly work it out until my 3rd year at university. I took my favourite subject (history) as I really didn’t know what else to do aged 18! I then did a summer job at Topshop and thought, this is it! I want to work in this world. I had always loved fashion and shopping growing up but never dreamed I could make a living out of it.

Please, can you tell me a bit about your career so far?

Once I had decided it was fashion I wanted to get into I researched all the different roles. I alighted on buying. It really excited me. It was very difficult to get into and I entered sideways as an allocator for Wallis. This sits in the merchandising function, not buying, but was a perfect place to start to learn how the retail world operates. I was basically responsible for sending out the stock, monitoring it and doing transfers. It’s a vital role and I relished the analysis side of things especially. I have to admit I wasn’t very good at it!

I then took a job as a Buyer’s Clerk at Faith Footwear (which was huge then!). Again this was a starter role but I learnt all the grassroots jobs and began to really grasp what made commercial sense. I began to do some buying and then got my dream role as an Assistant Buyer at Selfridge’s department store. I started in menswear and then moved to women’s. I was responsible for the denim room, the casual area and then moved into designer wear and millinery.

It was a brilliant time. I attended all the shows all over the world and had huge autonomy. I then worked briefly for Prada. It was an amazing experience seeing how the luxury market worked and the difference between working multi-brand versus single brand.

I then moved to Reiss to be Head of Buying. This again was a huge learning curve and totally different to all the roles I had had previously. I worked closely with the in house design team seeing sketches and toiles for the first time. I adored that process and the honour of seeing sketch to shopfloor all the way through. By this time I had worked for ten years in buying and was thinking about my next move.  

I took a break and trained as a stylist as I wanted to run my own business and help other women navigate the choppy waters of style! I then got pregnant with my first child and styling enabled me to work around him as well as a consulting role for the award-winning designer, Margaret Howell. I did all their womenswear buying for a few years and then moved to range planning and helping with concessions.

What skills do you feel are key to what you do?

For buying you need to be numerate, analytical and resilient; have strong stamina, be hard-working, good at negotiating and possess a natural eye for the right pieces. Not the pieces you like, but the pieces that the customer wants. Range planning requires many of the same skills but is more analytical. In styling, I believe you need to be a good listener, empathetic, energetic, enthusiastic and kind. You need to be really interested in people and create strong relationships with retailers and clients alike.

What’s the most satisfying thing about what you do?

The wonderful, wonderful people I work with. Being invited into people’s homes and wardrobe’s is a magical thing. Being able to help someone transform themselves or dig them out of a style rut and make them feel better is so rewarding. Finding the right pieces that you know a client will love is very similar to what I enjoyed about buying. Seeking out the best items and using all the knowledge and experience I have gathered over the years feels really good. I never tire of it.

In terms of my consultancy work there really is nothing better than seeing all the outfits you have worked with over 6 months come to life on the catwalk, the campaigns and the company lookbooks. The designers are the real stars but I have a hand in making the range commercially successful and that’s fabulous to me.

What do you do every day? What does a typical day look like?

Every day is different. I could be scouting for a personal shopping session, clearing out a wardrobe, planning next season’s range, looking at toiles or doing a colour analysis.

What advice would you give someone wanting to do what you do?

Immerse yourself in the fashion world. Ask questions and start right at the bottom, with humility, and learn everything you can about the business from all angles.

Where do you go to keep up with current trends?

Stores, Instagram and Vogue.com

Has the importance of catwalk trends changed over the years? Are there other more important influences these days?

Street style.

What ambitions do you have in your role?

To help as many women as possible to fulfil their potential and look and feel great in what they wear.

What kind of satisfaction do you get from your roles? For instance, how does it feel when you are featured in publications you admire or when you work with a client?

It’s a wonderful buzz and I feel very grateful.

Is there anything that has inspired or guided you in getting you to where you are today? For instance a book, tool, approach to life or a saying?

Just do it!

How do you keep a balance in your life?

I have two boys, Sam and Jesse, so being mum as well as running my own business and consulting is really tough sometimes. I love all my roles so I’m incredibly lucky. Yes, I do feel under pressure at busy times. I relax by taking long baths, reading, walking and getting outside as much as possible.

What are this seasons most flattering trends?

Velvet and cord are very flattering next to the face!

What are your top trends for Christmas this year?

I’m still very taken with head to toe velvet, a suit preferably. Or the amazing pink sequin dress by Preen for LK Bennett.

Do you have any tips for Christmas dressing?

Make sure it’s comfortable. When trying on -sit down, stretch, move around, reach up and ensure your outfit doesn’t pull or dig in.

What’s the one thing we should be investing in now for SS18?

Souped-up trainers

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Contact Anna via email at anna@annaberkeley.com

Anna's website: annaberkeley.com

Anna's Instagram: @annaberkeleystyling

Fashion Insiders: Weaver and Fabric Designer Hollie Ward

Photograph Fanny Sutus

The fifth interview in my Fashion Insiders series is with the incredibly talented weaver and fabric designer Hollie Ward. I’ve been a massive fan of Hollie’s work for years; I love getting an insight into the story behind her work and we have a shared love of all things indigo!

I’m always fascinated by the start of the production process, particularly when there’s a strong history behind it. The rise of makers and artisans like Hollie has meant that we are able to trace every part of creating garments; something that Hollie is passionate about.

I’m excited as she’s now started a brand called HVW; a collection for men and women that utilises her handwoven fabrics. Now based in London, what’s important to Hollie is incorporating craftsmanship into every part of her life, including her work. It’s clear that she has a deep dedication for what she does and her mission to create products that people have a connection with is certainly one that I support. I look forward to seeing where her journey takes her next.

Hi, Hollie, it’s great to speak to you as I’m a huge fan of HVW.

How do you describe HVW?

I think I do a lot of mumbling the first time I try to describe it to someone! The brand is about making garments that have a story, that can tell a story, they exist to make people feel. I think we live in such a consumer ridden society that we all have throw away morals towards clothing, food etc. I want people to feel a connection to the garments. The brand is about amazing fibres, textures, feelings, it's an element of luxury in how I feel we should surround ourselves with things we love. The reason I use a lot of wool is because it has so many amazing properties for looking after our bodies.

My customers vary from people to people! A lot more men buy my clothing than women, or at least they have so far. I think what makes them unique is they all have so much passion for clothing. They really do want a garment that tells a story, something unique that has been made with love and passion by a small group of people and they can tell the garment has been made out of passion.

Photograph Jack Fairey

You hand weave each of your fabrics. Are there any unique challenges and benefits to this approach?

It's a very long process but I see that as a positive. Each garment is completely unique and has been created with someone watching over it from start to finish. Each warp thread, threaded by hand and each weft thread thrown across by hand. It means each garment takes a very long time to produce and also they can have natural flaws within them that aren't always easy to hide, some people see this as a positive and some as a negative. The Japanese have the term "Wabi Sabi" meaning to accept transience and imperfection. I don't ever aim for imperfection if anything I am for perfection within my work, but the handwoven process doesn't always allow for that.

How long did you have the idea for HVW before you started working on it?

Honestly, I'm not sure. I guess it had been in the back of my mind for quite a few years. I've always had this obsession with making things from start to finish. Being able to trace every part of the production and having as few people involved as possible. Craftsmanship is so important to every single thing we do in life. And I think surely if we can, we should incorporate craftsmanship into every single element we can. Be it cooking, clothing, travelling, make everything as enjoyable as possible. I figure it came from me wanting to know where materials are from, where things are made, how they are made, and once I discovered all those things, I knew that’s where my work had to go.

Photograph Fanny Sutus

How did you feel before you launched the brand?

I'm quite a placid person in day to day life. My mood rarely changes away from that and I naturally find it quite easy to just get on with things. But that equally means I lack excitement sometimes! Or maybe I lack showing it. It has all felt like a very natural process and something that I need to do and have wanted to do for a long time, and I think because of this, the whole process was just enjoyable. There are of course things that can go wrong but in the grand scheme of things they are insignificant. If something goes wrong, you fix it or start again and work through it. It feels very natural to be making for me, and I'm very lucky to feel like that.

Have there been any challenges with having your own brand?

Working alone can be extremely hard, sometimes I really need someone to just tell me what to do! I guess part of that is having worked for various people in the past. I have worked for a couple of weavers as an assistant before who normally work alone and it was incredible to be trusted to produce their work whilst they were in the studio or not and in turn, they passed on a lot of skills to me. It's lovely having my own creative freedom and I get a lot of satisfaction from working alone on entire collections and projects. It allows me to really work through my ideas and thoughts and to make sure I am executing them exactly how I wish, with no other input. Equally, working as a team is incredibly supportive, I guess I'm lucky I have a bunch of people around me who will sit and listen to me talk about weaving for hours on end!

Tell me a bit about your fashion journey so far…

It's all a bit of a cliché, I grew up around my family being very creative and I'm sure that influenced my decisions and progress in life. My grandad was a painter and I used to love going and looking in his studio when I was younger and admiring the space. I always wanted to be a painter! I tried so hard to be a painter but I think I always needed something technical I could get my hands into. I was always encouraged to be creative, my mum definitely still has my GCSE paintings somewhere! I got interested in fabric when I was about 15, me and all my friends grew up listening to punk and hardcore music and a group of them put on all the shows in Hull (where I grew up) and I think that was when I first noticed how important fabrics were in terms of subcultures. A lot of perseverance and belief in what I do has allowed me to get to this point, for me there has never been another option other than to do what I love. I've never wanted to live life and not enjoy it.

Photograph Jack Fairey

Is there anything, in particular, that’s helped you most on your journey? Perhaps a piece of advice or a quote?

There is a Josef Albers quote "At the beginning the material stands alone" - which has always pushed me and encouraged me. It's relative to anything, ingredients for cooking, wood for carving, the material itself is so important to the end product. This is why I use pre consumer waste yarns and British wools and have spun my own yarn in the past.

How does it feel when you see the garments you’ve made worn on your customers?

It's a mixture of overwhelming, confusing and rewarding. I think there is an element of shyness about it, I get incredibly shy when people ask about my work in person which I think stems from being quite a private person. It's incredibly rewarding to see people wearing the garments and styling them as people have such unique approaches to wearing them.

Do you have any tips for someone wanting to start their own brand?

I think passion is the most important thing. It shows so clearly within a brand. It is everything everyone says it will be. All the bad bits and all the good bits. But is ultimately the most rewarding and satisfying thing to be involved with.

Do you use freelancers/outsource any roles to help with your business (graphic designers etc)?

I only ever use photographers. I do all of the branding and styling myself. I love working with other people and seeing their vision. Seeing how a photographer has chosen to shoot my work is always so exciting and makes my heart feel quite full!

Which social media outlets are most important to your brand and how do they work differently from each other?

I only have Instagram and my website. Without Instagram, I doubt I would be where I am now. Or at least my path would have been very different. It allowed me to gain press through my initial project weaving the first denim I wove here in Yorkshire and got people writing about my work online which was pivotal. It has also allowed me to meet so many amazing and inspiring people!

Do you feel a lot of pressure as the owner of your brand?  

No, because I only do this out of passion. Every part of the brand is within my control and I will only ever allow the brand to be what I want it to be. It's very important for the brand to stay true to its roots with small and local production and being the owner of the brand, it means I can ensure all of this is possible. If anything, it's exciting!

Photograph Fanny Sutus

Do you think it’s easier or harder to start a brand these days? 

It's definitely both. It's very easy to start a brand and create a following and presence. It’s so easy now to make a website look amazing and use social media. I would certainly assume it has made life easier in the grand scheme of things to get your work out there, but equally, it has lost half of the charm of discovering brands through unique concept stores and outlets. We all have a perception of most brands from online before we ever see them in person and have formed our opinion, and that will always impact your feelings when you finally experience them. I guess the element of discovery has been lost slightly in terms of touch and look, which I think is a big shame.

What do you do to unwind? 

I enjoy always knowing I am going somewhere! Having a trip booked always keeps me inspired, I find a lot of satisfaction from leaving the UK. I think it's something mentally about leaving the island we live on that I find very freeing. I enjoy eating out, probably too much! I spend most of my time I'm not weaving surrounded by friends and try to be as social as possible, London is such an amazing place to be with so many great restaurants and exhibitions etc. And lots of lovely parks!

What/who are your biggest influences?

So many things! Food! I enjoy eating out a lot, I enjoy the experience of new places, service, styling of food, flavours, analysing meals and cocktails and whisky and environments. People are a constant inspiration, from people I speak to daily to people on the tube. I saw a man the other week in a off pink linen suit and he looked amazing! But equally living, the way we live inspires me and influences me greatly. Hearing about different cultures. The way people live their life. I'm really interested in sleeping patterns and repetitions and the different levels of sleep. I listen to a lot of music and I'm sure subconsciously that influences me through affecting mood/ feeling.

What does HVW have in the pipeline over the next few months?

We have just received some samples of weaving yarn made from British wool that we will be sampling alongside with some wool we brought back from Iceland, all undyed and very lovely. I plan on spending the next couple of months working with these fibres and another trip to Iceland to spend some more time there.

HVW is now available to buy. Follow Hollie on her Instagram @hollieward_